Friday, September 18, 2009

Finland Finally


Arrived in Vaasa on Wednesday and lost an hour. Had to settle for the Best Western which was overpriced. It some how felt unfair that I would only be able to stay here for only 8 hours as I had checked into the hotel at around 1:30am.
I promised an old professor from University that I would visit Vaasa university to see the library by http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Simo_Paavilainen

A lovely building with terraced floor plates with views towards a lake. Had a cup of coffee in the student cafe and read a copy of the Sunday Times. Kinda' missing the Guardian. I think what I loved about the building was the way in which every seat/desk had a view of the lake and landscape beyond. The natural light penetrating into the building was also a nice change to the artificial flourescents I am used to in libraries at home. Left Vaasa early afternoon to catch a train to Jyvaskyla, Alvar Aalto's home town. I was excited.

I arrived and checked into a self service hotel. There is zero contact with hotel staff. The room was booked over the internet and a text message was sent to me which included room number and door code. I arrived and followed the instructions which included swiping my credit card to open the outside security gate and door. I took the elevator up to my room and typed in the door code on a keypad outside my door. I walked into a room with a flat screen tv on the wall with a personalized welcome message. The flat screen tv was controlled with a sort of wireless computer keyboard that had tv, internet, film, weather, and FAQ info access. I was sort of amazed and skeptical at the experience. It was about 11pm when I had arranged to meet my couchsurfer host for a drink. We met at the Old Bricks Inn, a popular bar in the city centre. Kevin is a mathematician and an american so we had no problems finding interesting conversation. I treated him to a glass of single malt whisky. Paid 19 euros for two Highland Parks...ouch!

The next day was Aalto day. I went to Kevin's in the morning to drop off my luggage and have a cup of coffee before walking Kevin to his office at the university - otherwise known as Aalto Land. It was interesting to talk to Kevin about his experience of the university buildings. I think he definitely had a beef with the men's toilets in the main building. Not being able to close the door to a cubicle once inside was very annoying. Aalto's campus buildings feel very much at ease with its surroundings. The Lozzi building houses the student cafeteria. It was a lovely surprise to walk into the building on the ground floor, up the stairs into a large bright cafeteria hall with timber framed trusses then out onto an external brick paved patio with tables and chairs leading seamlessly into the forested campus again. Note, if you come for a visit try to get there for lunch as the student meals are amazing value for 5-6 euros.

Wandered down to the Alvar Aalto Museum which is located very close to the university campus. A small museum but with very well thought out exhibitions with a good collection of models and his furniture. The gift shop had many Aalto books I had never seen before. I wanted to buy them all, but didn't think I would be able to carry them in my luggage so decided to save it for Amazon when I got home. I spent the better part of an afternoon there then meandered back into the city centre to find some more Aalto. The Worker's Club 1924-1925 was one of Aalto's earlier buildings and quite different to his later work at the University 1951-71. It feels like a before and after snap shot. He died in 1976, the year I was born.

Met up with Kevin later in the evening and did some food shopping at a few of the supermarkets in the city centre. I have never seen so many malls in such a small city. The city centre is made up of a series of soul-less mini malls. Kevin was of the opinion that this was in keeping with the Finnish attitude to a closed society and culture. A little bit anti-social and very protective of privacy and personal space. I was reminded of all the stares I received walking around the city and was stopped on a few occasions by people who tried to practice their Japanese and/or wanted something translated from Chinese.

I made my signature ratatouille for Kevin and his friend Susanne. It was a group effort and we did quite well. The evening seemed to pass by quickly in Kevin's one room flat, (23 sq.m) Luckily Kevin had ear plugs for my inevitable snoring that night. Decided to go to the "Vihrea Haltijatar" which translates to english as the Green Fairy pub.

Today, went back to the Alvar Aalto Museum with cash to pay for my 1 night accommodation at the Saynatsalo Town Hall. A woman overheard my discussion with the staff member and was amazed to find out that you could actually rent out a room there. For 50 euros a night you can stay at the Town Hall. There are two rooms named after Aalto and his wife Elissa. I'm staying in the Alvari Room. I was given a brown envelope with instructions, directions to the town hall and keys to the room. I couldn't believe how trusting they were to allow me to pick up a key on Saturday for a Sunday night stay.

Stopped by the Farmer's Market, an annual weekend event to celebrate the harvest and signal the end of the summer. Lots of food stalls and hand made goods, everything from bread to knitted wool socks. Tried a sort of fried salmon dumpling, apples that were similar to Macintosh , several different types of jams from berries native to Finland and little fried fishes that were extremely tasty. Bought loads of chanterelle mushrooms and another type of mushroom for 5 euros. Decided they would be good for a mushroom risotto for dinner that evening.

Went for a lovely walk in the woods to build up an appetite for dinner. Hikes and access to nature walks are very close by.

Tomorrow Kevin and I will part ways, he heads to Prague. I will be taking a bus to Saynatsalo island where I'll be staying at the town hall. I'll be meeting Anne there in the morning, another couchsurfer who was very kind to have invited me for dinner at her place. Monday I will get in to see the Experimental House in Muuratsalo, then I head to Pori where I will be spending the night before getting a bus the next morning to see Villa Mairea...can't wait!

(I managed to upload some photos to accompany my previous blogs. Will try to upload more when I get a chance)

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