Hello Sweden

Took the train from Trondheim to Sundsvall in Sweden, switching trains in Ostersund. A fairly long journey which started at 8.20am and finished in Sundsvall around 4pm. I was surprised that I wasn't asked for my passport when I crossed the border.

I had a half hour to kill before meeting up with my next couchsurfer host. Lena and her husband Larsh was nice enough to host me for one night. They live in an old farm house just outside of the city. I was fortunate to have met some of their friends who were on their way north of Sundsvall to begin a puppet theatre show tour for kids. We made dinner together. It's incredible how quickly you can whip up a feast with 6 people, a dog and a cat in the kitchen! Larsh is a blacksmith and he showed me his forge behind the house. He also has a workshop which he uses to make beautiful kayaks using traditional construction methods from Greenland. The kayaks are clad using the same material ship sails are made from. Traditionally seal skins were used, but Larsh is not allowed to use seal skins now for obvious reasons. I was also shown wooden paddles which were light as a feather. He is a very talented man, but is only able to make a living working as a welder in a nearby factory. The blacksmithing and kayak making have been reduced to hobbies.

I didn't stay long in Sundsvall. I was up the next morning at about 7am to take the bus back into the city centre. Had a very quick walk around the city centre and took the 10am bus north to Umea. A university town - my Lonely Planet guide notes that the average age here is 36 years old. The bus journey felt longer than it was, about 4 hours and managed to get into Umea around 2pm. The sun was shining, 17 degrees. I headed for the tourist information centre to find accommodation for the night. Almost all hotels and hostels were booked - there was some sort of convention in town so I had to settle for Hotel Wasa for 80 euros, breakfast included. I decided to take advantage of the opportunity to do some handwashing of some underwear and socks in the ensuite washroom.

Afterwards I headed down to the river for a walk in the sun. Past a student demonstration in the street. It looked like it had something to do with Swedish socialist politics. The town is kitted out with cafes, bars, kebab, pizza and burger joints. Tried some liquorice ice cream - surprisingly good. Decided to visit a pub called 'The Pipes of Scotland' It's noted in my Lonely Planet guide as a popular place to meet students. It was around 8pm when I walked into the pub. There was probably about 8 people there. I had a pint and watched a bit of Manchester United playing a team I didn't recognize - the tv was too far away for me to see and I couldn't be bothered to check. The student behind the bar was wearing a t-shirt with the St.Andrew's cross on it. He spoke with a very strong accent. I didn't want to ask if he'd ever been to Scotland. He was grumpy enough when I asked if he had any local beers on draft, which he didn't.

Got up this morning and went to the tourist information centre to find out the bus schedule for the ferry terminal in Umea. Turns out you cannot get a bus directly to the ferry terminal, it stops at the nearest town which is 2km from the terminal and you have to walk. Went back to my hotel who were nice enough to arrange a taxi to get me there - 35 euros. I am taking a 4hr ferry journey from Umea to Vaasa at 8pm. 60 euros for 1 adult, walk on passenger, one way. It would have been cheaper to fly. What a faff, I can't wait to get to Finland.